Restaurant Review: Starlite: A Tim Mays Joint

CDW and I like to time our visits to new restaurants in the San Diego area in conjunction with publicity visits by local media outlets. For example, our meal at the Guild (Barrio Logan) was accompanied by a Channel 8 newscrew- complete with bulky shoulder mounted camera and black cords snaking over the floor! Last night during our visit to the new Tim Mays-owned Restaurant "Starlite"(just... "Starlite"- ok) on India street, it was hard to ignore Seth Combs (local journalist/local music scene pariah) and the crew from Riviera Magazine, along with the husband/wife design team "bells and whistles," and of course- Tim Mays himself along with his lovely wife- not involved with the Riviera shoot but "in the house" as it were.

So the San Diego restaurant community has taken some stabs at catering to the "foodie san diego" market in the last few years. Shall we review the list? Modus, The Guild, JSix, Confidential, Cafe Chloe, Region, Bondi, that new restaurant by the Hash House guys the name of which I'm forgetting. Oh fuck- ANTHOLOGY? Right? I will deal with Anthology all in good time.

The only one on that list that I ever go to is Cafe Chloe, but not so much recently.

The unquestioned highlight of the Starlite experience is the show-stopping main dining room (there is an unfinished? back patio area) designed by design-duo bells and whistles. Hats off for that dining room! An oft-bungled element of "cool" restaurant design is a little something I like to call "warmth" and it's good friend "comfort." "Cool" restaurant design is often equated with some take on "Modernism"- which- I think is a mistake. Restaurants ought to provide an intimate atmosphere that encourages convivality and lubricates social interaction. Like- Is this a good place for a first date? For trying to sign up a new client? To take an out of town guest? To celebrate a personal triumph of some sort?

In that regard, Starlite is an unqualified success. This is the first restaurant I've been to in San Diego that really appeals to me in a social context. Part of that is the ownership- Tim Mays, man. Part of that is the design of the main room- great use of various materials, sunken bar in the center of the room, nice chandelier, hammered metal light fixtures. And- this is the best part- they have booths! Love the booth! It's hard to have a really terrible time in a booth. The booths are reminiscent of the Turf Supper Club- kind of a 50s lounge point of reference. The combination of rock and wood in the dining room interior is most harmonious.


The service was competent and attentive- water glass was never less than half full, waitress was a little nervous but did a good job and made us feel welcome. Just receiving service that is "OK" is an event in fine dining within San Diego. That has already struck me as bizarre- many restaurants can succeed based on SERVICE ALONE! The food doesn't even have to be that great if the service is top notch. The service experience at other would-be "foodie" san diego restaurants has been disappointing- a main reason that I um... don't go to them.

The concise menu is designed to be "seasonal"- this was their "summer" menu, and the idea is that there will be four new menus each year. If I might make a recommendation- more menus. six, eight, ten, twelve. I have no problem with a small menu, but if you are going to offer three entrees, you can't expect people to eat there more than once or twice per menu, maybe that's just me, I like variety.

The cocktail list is strong- as you would damn well expect from a guy who runs the Turf Supper Club and the Casbah. I had a Starlite Mule- organic vodka, ginger beer, bitters- served in a copper mug- which I believe is the distinguishing feature of the "Mule" which was the name for the original vodka mixed drink- if I am not mistaken...

The wine list was decent- $15 corkage fee. we ordered an ok bottle of Rose Champagne for a "night cap"- The fact that they serve a Rose Champagne on such a concise wine list is an indication that the selector reads the paper. You didn't miss the NYT piece on rose champagne did you?

The appetizer menu was short. We tried the Sausage Plate ($15). It contained six slices of a salami type meat, a small house made sausage and a rough pate served on toast. Everything on the plate was delicious, the salami was the underachiever of the bunch, and I think an additional piece or two of bread might be a nice addition. In line with the broad outlines of the "nouveau cuisine" movement, portions here are smaller- which is, frankly, a plus. I can't stand the Hash House approach. Barf!

We tried both salads- an "organic cucumber" ($7?)number that was pretty good- not distinguished but light and good despite perhaps just a touch too much salt. My "chopped caesar" ($9)had a surfeit of parmesan (?) but was totally redeemed by the dressing that had anchovies mixed in! Yum! I fucking hate it when I order a caesar salad and there is no anchovy involved. You know what you call that dressing? Not "caesar" but "Ranch with Garlic". OK?

The entrees were good. I was, frankly, relieved to hear that the menu format will be seasonal. The clear point of reference is the Bay Area "Chez Panisse" formula of "fresh and local." Contrary to what our waitress told us Chez Panisse is not in San Francisco, but in Berkely. I grew up in the East Bay and had the opportunity to dine at Chez Panisse on multiple occasions, and my bottom line is that it's flavorless hippie food. I mean, yeah, yeah, it was revolutionary and it is great as one of multiple influences, but it's not a be all, end all. I think we've all gotten used to the organic/local thing - there needs to be that plus other influence. That- by the way- was my knock on Region- not interesting enough.

I had a steak- which was excellent- perfectly cooked "rare" and, even though they didn't announce it as "organic" on the menu, it had the texture or organic beef- oh yeah- i can tell. The fish was good- moist and flaky- grouper. No one had the chicken- and frankly- chicken's very appearance on this limited menu was kind of a bummer. Both entrees had weak to non existent "side dishes" which is a little surprising for a $20+ entree, but personally all right with me- I don't need to scarf down yet another side of garlic mashed potatos.

Another benefit of the limited portion side for the mains was plenty of room for dessert- which was STAND OUT! We had the "It's It" (a Bay Area style ice cream sandwich that is circular with two chocolate chip or oatmeal cookies enclosing ice cream- about the size of a fist) style Ice Cream sandwich which is cut into fours and had toffee and pisatchio nuts- delicious, and worth a trip just to try because.... YOU DON'T HAVE IT'S ITS in SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA! It's a Bay Area ice cream treat! Anndd... I think I'm the first person to point that out! Best of San Diego - "Dessert of the Year"!

The other desert- a "Berry Trifle"($10?) was similarly delectable- with fresh whip cream, eye poppingly juicy berries (black berries, raspberries) a syrup that was rich but not overwhelming and what I believed to be angel food cake in the bottom? Am I right about that?

Our meal was pleasantly lengthy- no rushing here. I feel like the menu is designed for you to eat something from every part of the menu. Our price per person averaged out to about $65 a person with champagne, drinks, appetizer, salad, entree and desert-- some of which were shared around the 4 person table.

I would like to see more incorporation of latin american cuisine on the menu- hello??? Chili Peppers? Yuca? My steak was accompanied by two potatos that were cut in half. There should be improvement. Don't get me wrong- Starlite compares quite favorably both to the asian fusion nightmare of the guild and the drab modus offerings but I want to see something spicy on that menu. It's funny- because, I felt the same way about Chez Panisse a decade ago- spice it up! I don't see how we can build a distinct local cuisine culture without embracing latin american ingredients. Show me that influence! I blame the fact that most of our nouvelle chefs are emigres from the San Francisco Bay Area.

Bottom Line-- Starlite is a hit. I expect to return, you need to check it out and make up your own mind but it gets my hearty thumbs up.